Toward the Break

About this piece

Three surfers form a diagonal procession from open sand into white water, beneath bands of blue surf and luminous gold cloud. Footprints and reflections draw the eye toward the breakers, balancing the ocean’s scale with the measured movement of the figures.

The story

I framed the shoreline with room for the footprints, letting their uneven trail lead toward the surfers. One had already stepped into the foam; the others stood between the warm sand and the blue water, boards held close. Beyond them, the breakers rose beneath a sky bright with gold. What held my attention was that small distance between walking and entering—the few remaining steps before the ocean would determine every movement.